Thomas Langford’s baby monitor is beeping. Except the “baby monitor” is actually a wireless remote for a cooking thermometer, and “my baby” is how Langford refers to his offset smoker. The smoker is out behind Kar’s Char, the new and Texas-style barbecue place Langford and James Emery recently opened in a space at Huntsville arts center Lowe Mill.

Langford and Emery, who are also a couple, opened Kar’s Char a couple weeks ago in one of the “railroad room” spaces located alongside Lowe Mill’s main, three-story brick building. They do terrific brisket, not always the easiest thing to come by in Alabama, a state barbecue-wise known for pork prowess. Kar’s Char’s brisket is rustic, tender, peppery. All the stuff you want it to be.

Thomas says Texas barbecue’s distinguishing characteristics include using post oak and mesquite wood to flavor the meat. The pork is dry rubbed, heavy on the chili power. “But really,” he adds, “beef is king in Texas, so you run across a lot more in the way of brisket. They don’t have a whole lot of brisket around here, and I’m trying to change that.”

The flavorful cut of the meat itself is part of brisket’s allure. But really it’s all about the bark, the burnt-looking exterior that’s the result of a “Maillard reaction” alchemy of animal, heat, smoke and rub. Combined with the fatty edge on a good slice of brisket, it makes for sexy-awesome eats.

Kar’s Char’s space was last home to vegan venture The Veggie, which has since relocated to Madison. Kar’s Char’s Lowe Mill neighbors include vinyl destination Vertical House Records, guitar luthier Tangled String and chocolatier Pizzelle’s Confections. Vegan food trailer Chef Will The Palate is a frisbee toss away.

Barbecue is very “Bama,” and somewhat incongruous with Lowe Mill’s chi. But Kar’s Char’s Texas twist and Emery and Langford’s energy won the arts center’s juried process over. Lowe Mill executive director Marcia Freeland says Emery and Langford, “wrote a great artist’s statement. They took it serious. And the Mill’s an incubator for artists, so part of that is for makers and independent businesses”.

Freeland is stoked about Kar’s Char joining Lowe Mill’s increasingly formidable food options, which also include recently opened standout Velocé Pizza. This is advantageous for Lowe Mill. Since visitors don’t have to leave the arts center to find something appealing to eat, all the reason to stay and peruse the studios and shops there longer.

Since this particular space was already built out for a restaurant, originally by defunct eater Happy Tummy, Kar’s Char’s founders didn’t have that cost/risk. “Most restaurants,” Freeland says, “you have to put, I’m gonna guess, like half a million dollars to build-out a restaurant with all the equipment and stuff. All this is built-out for them. It’s ready.”

She says Happy Tummy proprietor Catherine Shearer, who closed shop to be a caregiver for her mom, deserves credit for being a pioneer for food businesses at Lowe Mill. “Everyone since is kind of standing on her shoulders,” Freeland says.

Besides what they do with brisket, Kar’s Char’s sides are also notable. I’ve tried the mac and cheese, which was lush, and the vinegar slaw, a zingy and crisp counterpoint. “All of the sides are my grandmother’s recipes,” Emery says. In time, the proprietors plan to add items like a brisket burrito and brisket melt sandwich to their menu.

Emery and Langford first met at a renaissance fair in Oklahoma, around nine years ago. Their barbecue joint’s name has a fantasy connection too. Kar is a dragon character Langford came up with and likes to draw. Kar’s visage can be found on the blackboard on the restaurant’s corrugated aluminum exterior.

In addition to cooking and renaissance fair stuff, the couple bonded over gardening. They enjoy having friends over for dinner, and Kar’s Char is a way for them to now welcome an entire community to their table, Emery says.

Langford, who is from Amarillo, Texas, relocated to North Alabama to be with Emery, a Hazel Green native. Emery’s worked in food service most of his life, from McDonald’s to P.F. Chang’s. Langford learned how to barbecue from family members, and previously worked as a pizza deliver guy.

Langford says Kar’s Char, “is kind of just an opportunity that God or the universe or whatever you want to call it gave us.” The day Freeland emailed them to let them know they were approved for Lowe Mill, the couple cried tears of joy together. “It’s quite an honor,” Langford says, “to be here.”

Kar’s Char’s hours of operation and more info at facebook.com/KarsChar.

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