Mardi Gras: Mobile lets les bon temps roll, with first parade of 2024
It’s the rhythmic punch of marching bands that gave Mobile’s Mardi Gras parades their “boom boom” nickname, but before that comes a familiar jangle: the clatter of galvanized barricades being dragged into place before a parade.
It was in the air early Friday evening, as were other things Mobilians tend to forget until the approach of Fat Tuesday brings them back around. The sight of small clusters of diehards staking out space along the parade route as early as 5 p.m. The sight of people in ball gowns and tails enjoying al fresco beverages like the world’s most overdressed tailgaters. The palpable tension of eastbound drivers lined up on Government Street, wanting nothing more than to make it to the Bankhead Tunnel and the relative sanity of Baldwin County. The bewilderment of other drivers trying to navigate downtown streets as the slow, systematic constriction of the barricades made that an increasingly unwise proposition and tow trucks prowled the service paths around the parade route like sharks in a community swimming pool.
And then, right on time, the Conde Cavaliers, whose procession is the traditional opener for downtown Mobile’s Mardi Gras season, rolled out.
The forecast had been iffy, after several days of rain, and radar had shown a blob of rain lurking offshore all day, crawling slowly north. An hour before the parade rolled at 6:30, it looked as if turnout might be light. But the precipitation never arrived, and the parade was met by ample and enthusiastic crowds throughout the early, easternmost part of the route.
Among those on hand, taking the occasional peek from his shop at the corner of Royal and Conti streets, was Fabian Olensky. Now 91, he said he’d been watching parades for around 65 years now and tended to find the spectators more interesting than the spectacle.
“If people are enjoying themselves, that’s the main thing,” he said. “I just enjoy seein’ people.”
As illustrated by the accompanying photos, the Condes brought a full measure of color. And they brought the boom, too, with music blasting from their floats and marching bands in between.
Saturday, Jan. 28, brings both day and night parades: The Bayport Parading Society and the Mystic DJ Riders roll at 2 p.m. on Mobile’s Route A, followed by the Pharoahs Mystic Society and the Conde Explorers at 6:30 p.m. On Sunday the action shifts to Dauphin Island, where the Massacre Island Secret Society will hold its tableau starting at 6:30 p.m.
Then there’s a bit of a lull until Thursday, Feb. 1, when the Order of Polka Dots rolls at 6:30 p.m. on Route A. From there Mobile has almost daily parades until Fat Tuesday, Feb. 13. The parade schedule can be found here. For ongoing coverage, click here.